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Now i have real life experience with Boosterplug

Discussion in 'Exhaust System & Fuel Delivery' started by Benny Østerbye, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Benny Østerbye

    Benny Østerbye New Member

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    I am the happy owner of an R1200RS model 2017.
    However, I have noticed that the otherwise powerful engine has some problems,
    when starting from standstill and with the engine in the area of rotation slightly above idle,
    the engine somtimes stops.
    It's not as bad as the R1200R I tried.
    I have realized that there is a general problem on several Euro4 models,
    which should have a very lean mixture in low revs.
    Here is the question:
    Is there anyone who has experience with BoosterPlug for Euro4 models?
    (No, i dont want to use Powercomander) :)
     
  2. ray2

    ray2 Well-Known Member Contributor

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    I apologize, as this doesn't directly address your question.

    I understand what you are saying, but my answer for handling a relatively high first gear in a 235 kg bike (OK - about 350 kg with me and a little luggage) is to abuse the clutch a little. I figure it's OK, because I'm no longer using the clutch for down-shifting or my numerous other methods of wearing out a clutch.

    Slipping the clutch for those occasionally necessary, slow and quiet starts, seems a good financial alternative to messing with engine electronics. (It also keeps my clutch hand in practice in case I have to ride something without clutchless shifting.)

    When I have the opportunity for a high-rev, noisy, high G-force start, I usually take it (and really abuse the clutch). I don't have Euro-4 electronics, but I suspect the power on your bike at 5000 RPM is going to get you going just fine.

    If you're looking for more power in the high range, held og lykke. Lad os vide det.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2017
  3. James Bagley

    James Bagley Well-Known Member

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    I'm not impressed with "spoofers" like the Boosterplug. Eventually the closed-loop mapping of the BMW fuel injection will adapt and you end up with fueling that is little different from when you started. I tried a spoofer on my Guzzi and was underwhelmed. Only when I got a re-flash of the ecu that replaced the closed loop mapping with a slightly richer open-loop map did I achieve the low-speed performance I was looking for...
     
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  4. Widetrack

    Widetrack Member Contributor

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    I don't have a Booster plug on the RS but I did have one on an '07 R1200R. I don't think it would address your concerns but I was very happy with it. It smoothed out the idle and low speed fueling and stopped the exhaust popping on down shifts. I may consider one when my warranty runs out.
     
  5. Bazza Beemer

    Bazza Beemer Well-Known Member

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    Wondering if an AKro exhaust will help as don't they make the engine fuel a bit more? Trouble is you have to pay more tohave the bike run better. I am with Ray2 but perhaps not 5000rpm but might pay to slip the clutch a little more to get going.
     
  6. ray2

    ray2 Well-Known Member Contributor

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    (I was only making the point - unlike at "slightly above idle," 5000 rpm is going to make a lot of power - more power than needed - with or without Euro4 electronics.)
     
  7. m1bjr

    m1bjr Active Member

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    Generally free flowing cans and intakes lead to an even leaner situation, but the long term fuel trims can deal with it.
    The target is the target however, so it will always arrive at the original value if it's in range. i.e. lean as designed.
    The ONLY way is to remap the fuelling properly.

    This engine also has TWO throttle bodies don't forget.
    Tuners seem to find smoother results after carefully remapping each side, much like carb balancing on the old stuff.
    Definitely one to explore, but tuners are few and far between it seems.
    If you see the default fuel/air ratio it's crazy lean.
     
  8. Benny Østerbye

    Benny Østerbye New Member

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    Then, BoosterPlug is tested. There is a noticeable positive difference.
    There is more torque from idle to about 2500 revolutions. Now I can actually start from idle without the engine going out!!
    Better torque i 1500-2500 rpm. 6 gear and 2000 rpm, no problem, just give gas.
    The "shooter sound from the exhaust is almost gone with a reduced gas / engine brake, that was part of it before.
    In general, there is a better gas response. I'm happy
     
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  9. Phillo

    Phillo Active Member

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    Agreed..I have had a very similar result with the " Accelerator Module " which is essentially the same thing :)
     
  10. Hein

    Hein Member

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    Where do u buy the "Accelerator Module" in South Africa?
     
  11. Phillo

    Phillo Active Member

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    Schlowy Custom Motorcycles Online
     
  12. Jeroen1969

    Jeroen1969 Well-Known Member

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    So far, my 2017 RS engine never stopped unless I pushed the start/stop button.. or put it in first with the side stand out..
     
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  13. Braap!

    Braap! Member

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    I too have the Booster Plug installed. The biggest pain was figuring out how to carefully remove the tank faring's without breaking anything! I have also installed a MIVV full exhaust (cat & flap delete) and a K&N air filter. The bike runs noticeably better and it seems to have all but removed the torque "dip" at mid rpm's. It's much more fun to short-shift and torque up thru the gears rather than making a bunch of noise at upper register like a sport bike! I am happy with the way she purrs now!
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2017
  14. Benny Østerbye

    Benny Østerbye New Member

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    Hi. Braap

    There is no need to remove the tank faring. You can loosen one screw and raise your hand to the plug.
    It took me 15 minutes to install the Booster plug.
    Why did you remove the cat & the flap valve?
    I have no dip at mid rpm.
     
  15. Braap!

    Braap! Member

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    Hay Benny! I was changing the air filter and removing the GPS holder (had to un-plug the connector) anyway. The new exhaust didn't employ a cat or a flapper valve. Plus - I just like taking things apart (it's a sickness!) I still have a 1939 Ford tractor laying in a pile that I need to put back together - I think it's more fun taking things apart. . .
     
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  16. Aussie Import

    Aussie Import Well-Known Member

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    No, you are confusing mechanics with getting undressed for sex.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2017
  17. Braap!

    Braap! Member

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    It is amazing how fast one can do that when the opportunity presents itself. . .
     
  18. James Kennedy

    James Kennedy Active Member

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    How did the re flash effect higher rpm power and who did you find for the re flash. Having trouble where I live to find someone to re flash.
     
  19. James Bagley

    James Bagley Well-Known Member

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    For my Guzzi, I used GuzziTech for the reflash of my ECU. The price was reasonable ($250) and the results were impressive. Far better low speed fueling with a smooth progression through the entire rev range. I believe that GuzziTech turned off the closed loop portion of the fuel map and replaced it with an open-loop flash from an earlier model (and some tweaks to match my modifications). It works great; no popping on deceleration, better fuel economy, and cooler engine temperatures.

    However, if you wish to re-flash the RS, MAX BMW is the only resource I have found in the USA. By every account, they do a great job...but the price is dear: ~$800. I think about doing this from time-to-time, but for now I’m okay with my bike’s performance. I’ve got a Meriden Triumph to restore that will be using up my disposable income for a while...
     
  20. adam2

    adam2 New Member

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    I'd agree with you here. I was given a Booster plug to try on my Husqvarna Nuda, which had the same symptoms as above in closed loop. Eventually the ECU adapted and ignored it. I think a remap is the answer.
     

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