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Heated vest cable ...

Discussion in 'General R1200RS Discussions' started by CoOlSlY, Sep 3, 2017.

  1. CoOlSlY

    CoOlSlY New Member

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    I'm looking at an heated vest... The hotwired long sleeve liner in fact (it says 83 watts / 7.3A). I'd like to know if it will work in the R1200RS socket... I read somebod y using Gerbings vest + gloves that didn't worked... I also read 5A max but wondering if it could work anyway. If it doesn't, any suggestions of a vest under 5A? I don't want to really do any wiring...

    I'm also confused about what cable to get. Here's two links of what I think of ordering, does it make sense?

    https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/hotwired-heated-jacket-liner-20
    https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/tecmate-90-din-to-25-dc-adapter-cable
     
  2. wessie

    wessie Well-Known Member

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    The cable is the right one to run that jacket and other brands.

    7A will be too much for the standard accessory socket. I use a Keis X10 waistcoat which only draws 1.5A. This also allows me to run the heated insoles from the same socket. https://www.keisapparel.co.uk/product/keis-x10-heated-bodywarmer/
    I have ridden in winter at sub-zero temperatures up to 100 miles. I'd need the heated leggings to go further
    Not sure if this is sold in the US.
     
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  3. wessie

    wessie Well-Known Member

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    oh, if you want that jacket, it is not difficult to wire direct to the battery on the RS - my Keis jacket came with a fused lead to be able to do this and that is how I powered it on my FJ09
     
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  4. Lee

    Lee Well-Known Member

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    Most people run a harness direct to the battery for heated hear and battery chargers.
    Our Gerbing gear has a coaxial cable for connecting to the bike and came with a battery harness with a coaxial end that mates to the jacket.
    When I want to use my battery charger which has a SAE connector I use a SAE to Coaxial adapter cable.
    upload_2017-9-3_8-56-19.gif
     
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  5. ray2

    ray2 Well-Known Member Contributor

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    Why not just go with the BMW vest?

    In my experience, no need to get the 3-temperature controller - when I need power to the vest, I need full power - I believe 35 W.

    For me, with a hand knit sweater and insulation under the pants, good down to -10 C at 100 kpm.

    I got it for the tie-dye-esque lining.... Motorrad photos below.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    If you're far enough north, you might also want to look at snowmobile gear to go over your clothes.... (An easy and quick go-to for the right trip.)
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Grumpy Goat

    Grumpy Goat Well-Known Member Contributor

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    The cost effective solution is to connect this cable to your battery directly. Costs $8 from Cycle Gear or Revzilla (same company now) .

    [​IMG]
    Wiring is not difficult. If you have any more questions you can ask me as I have the Hotwired products and my bike is wired using the above and I have no issues but good usability.
     
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  7. Boxerboy55

    Boxerboy55 Well-Known Member

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    My Keis vest came with a connector as shown above, but I chopped the original off as I have connected a a Fuzeblock in to power 1. Charger, 2. Hot Vest, 3. Air Pump.
     
  8. CoOlSlY

    CoOlSlY New Member

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    I would go with the Gen X-3 vest which draws about 3.4amp... I would like gloves which draw 2.0amp... Total of 5.4 amp... Will it work on the 5.0A right side powerlet??? ... The exact wattage is 45 watts and 28 watts.

    Thank you
     
  9. wessie

    wessie Well-Known Member

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    If you use a heat controller and don't need them on MAX then you will draw under 5A - it will be suck and see if there is a large inrush current that trips out the socket. BMW should have designed the circuit to take a very short inrush spike over 5A as this is normal for many loads, especially things with heating element or motors.
    I never use my Keis gear on max as it is too hot for comfort.
     
  10. dkjkwood

    dkjkwood Member

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    I run a warm n safe liner via a direct (fused) line to the battery.
    I spoke to the gentleman that owns Warm n Safe a few years ago. He wants all his products run from a dedicated line.

    If you do any long distance riding in the cold, you will definitely want the heat troller. The newer wireless versions are really sweet. I leave mine in the tank bag where I can adjust temps as needed.
     
  11. LVGS

    LVGS New Member

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    Grumpy, did you connect the + end of the coax cable directly to the battery or did you use the auxiliary post (with the red cap)?
     
  12. daesimps

    daesimps Member

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    My heated gear is using a warm n safe wireless controller. The fly lead is connected to the positive auxiliary post and the battery negative. My wife has the same setup. We run it the same on our previous bikes, including RT, GS, R. Non BMW bikes haven't had the auxiliary post so have been direct to battery.

    I think I've replaced the battery in the wireless controller every couple, maybe 3, years.
     
  13. Grumpy Goat

    Grumpy Goat Well-Known Member Contributor

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    I used the auxiliary post, since the only difference between the two is the fastener - hex nut vs red-capped threaded socket. As far as I could tell, the leads to the positive post on the battery are the same gauge as the lead between the battery and this red-capped socket, and they are the same voltaic potential.
     
  14. duccrazydave

    duccrazydave Active Member

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    Hey Grumpy, could you expand on the use and functionality of the Hotwire items you're using. Thinking about purchasing heated gear for the first time and would appreciate your opinion of that brand and/or other brands you may have tried
     
  15. Jim Evans

    Jim Evans Well-Known Member

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    I have a heated jacket liner (Tourmaster Synergy) with heated sleeves. Definitely makes a difference to your hands. It doesn't work with the standard socket, of course, which is on the wrong side anyway ( the cord for the jacket is on the left), so I added a directly wired outlet on the left. I connected it via an SAE connector to the fused wired pigtail that my dealer connected to the battery and exterior red post ( they fit this to all their bikes so they can charge the battery). If I want to charge the battery or pump the tires I disconnect the lead to the outlet and use the pigtail. It saves another connection to the battery.
     
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  16. dkjkwood

    dkjkwood Member

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    I've owned 3 different heated jackets over the years. The original was a Gerbing, the second a Gerbing Micro Wire and I currently have a Warm N Safe. I would highly recommend the Warm N Safe. I would stay away from any that have the larger wires, heat up and cool down takes too long. The smaller (micro) styles are much more functional.
     
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  17. Lee

    Lee Well-Known Member

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    Warm N Safe seems to be the number 1 choice now that Gerbing has gone out of business.
    Nice to know Warm N Safe now uses Micro Wire.

    I see Gyde now uses the Gerbing name, but I don't know much about that company.

    We still have the Gerbing jacket liners we purchased in 2003.
     
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  18. Lee

    Lee Well-Known Member

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    Besides my heated gear, I can use the pigtail for my battery tender and you can also plug in a USB adapter to charge a phone or whatever.
    71xYpJwLgwL._SL1500_.jpg
     
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  19. Grumpy Goat

    Grumpy Goat Well-Known Member Contributor

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    Dave - First off I have a Hotwire pigtail attached directly to my battery - that is the source of power and it was initially installed on my previous bike and when I got this RS I uninstalled it and put it on the RS. The end cap has now broken off leaving the socket exposed; still works and I keep it clean. When it fails it will be replaced.

    hotwired_battery_connector_750x750.jpg
    I have the Hotwired heated jacket liner and glove liner. The glove liner plugs into the sockets at the ends of the sleeves, and the jacket liner is plugged into the pigtail via the Hotwired controller which came with the jacket liner.

    sedici_heated_jacket_liner20_black_750x750.jpg

    sedici_heated_jacket_liner_controller20_750x750.jpg
    hotwired_heated_glove_liners_black_750x750.jpg
    I have lined vinyl over pants which so far have done the job so I don't need the Hotwired heated pants liner or inner soles, yet. So far the jacket liner has worked a treat and gets warm pretty darned quick. The glove liners have been effective the few times I have used them, and although we have heated grips, these only work if you have the grips fully grasped. They are not effective when covering brakes and clutch as in city riding or if giving hands rest, so heated gloves are the all 'round answer for warm hands.

    I have no issue with the brand as it is (as far as I know) maybe the least expensive lineup on the market. And Cycle Gear / Revzilla have good bricks and mortar and online presence for Hotwired products. I also have Freeze-out and Heat-out products from Cycle Gear, both of which I find are cost effective and functionally adequate. As a matter of fact my Heat-out gilet is my go-to under layer during Houston winter months (under my summer mesh jacket) that I hardly need to break out the Hotwired jacket liner!

    I do recommend these products and you would likely be satisfied also.
     
  20. Lee

    Lee Well-Known Member

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    I had several of the pigtails without caps on earlier bikes and never had trouble.
    If it worries you, pick up a package of assorted vacuum hose caps at a parts store.

    [​IMG]
     
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